List of posts

BW

Hi Mike,

Totally agree with the issue around braking. In crash we talk about these exact points, especially when I teach motorcycle crash investigation. Study after study has shown the differences. I see it all to often in crashes where the rider has grabbed the front brake and had the front wash out. When application of both brakes would likely have seen them avoid the crash. I’m sure you are aware of them but Lou Peck and Nathan Rose and Wade Bartlett have done extensive testing on this area. Then of course there is the human factors side to braking under stress.

MA

Hi Bruce,

Thanks for your help. Can you have a look at this for me please before I release it.

https://britishsuperbikeschool.com/2024/01/17/press-release-brake-for-your-life-motorcycle-safety-campaign-2024/

BW

Looks pretty good and covers what we train crash investigators to look at. As you described the issue is, when you have to coordinate the application of both brakes, it is a complex process. When it’s an emergency most people lose the fine motor skills too, but also resort back to base reactions. That’s where training comes in, to make it second nature. So in the panic of an emergency they resort back to their embedded training.  You are bang on with incorrect assumptions of excess speed in motorcycle crashes. I constantly pick up investigators who have made assumptions in what a prepared under control situations a rider could have achieved in G decel rates. 

Studies of actual users in emergencies showed only half braked with a deceleration rate greater than 0.6G and only 28% higher than 0.8G.

Due to the complexity of motorcycle braking and accounting for the different skill levels of riders, it is more appropriate to use a range of 0.45 to 0.75G.

That last was a paragraph from actual crashes studies with data loggers. That’s car and motorcycle decel rates in emergencies. Comes from SHRP studies in the US. Where they fitted cars and motorcyclists with cameras and data loggers and just told them to go out and drive for a year. 

MA

I’ve got a horrible feeling that experience makes little difference, the first real high speed emergency is probably not usually survivable? The problem is lack of training. I think trackday riders have a better chance, but who’s to say how they will react?

BW

I would agree. Training not only on how to brake effectively but also ID of Hazards. How they react in emergency is the issue. But training does for me lead to a better chance and to get back to the memory of what to do

MA

Can you just let me know what percentage of riders you think skid and fall whilst braking in an emergency please. Thanks,  Mike

BW

The hard thing is giving an objective opinion, as I only see generally higher-end crashes. But it is across the board that inexperienced and experienced riders are dropping it. With experience, I mean, how many hours on the seat? At an educated guess, I would say it’s 50/50 for those that skid and fall and those that just collide with the vehicle (so insufficient braking or none at all as they appear to get target fixated). This is for the classic turn-across-path crash that most motorcyclists get involved in. That is just an educated guess.

MA

I assume around 50% of riders fall in the high end crashes you see, as evidenced by the marks on the bike, road and rider? Many thanks, Mike

BW

Yeah mix of bike and road evidence. We are also getting more caught on camera now too.

MA

I also think bikes should have linked brakes and ABS, as it’s far quicker to hit the rear if you’re not covering the front brake (which doesnt appear to be taught and doesnt appear in any advice). What do you think?

BW

Yeah linked ABS is a must. It takes out the need to do two actions by the rider and controlling the threshold braking needs. Fine motor skills go out the window in an emergency.

PROPOSALS

1. Riding Tests to include:-
   • emergency braking from 60 mph (currently 30 mph).
2. Current DVSA advice on emergency braking to apply front brake before the rear to be reviewed and changed to applying both brakes at same time
3. ABS to be mandatory for all PTWs over 50cc, specifically including 125cc which are currently exempt, as these are the PTWs that riders learn to ride on.

This paper covers in detail, one aspect of a proposed new strategy from the original post – https://britishsuperbikeschool.com/2023/12/15/response-to-mcia-ceo-tony-campbells-call-for-a-major-rethink-on-motorcycle-safety/

Further posts will be forthcoming on the other proposals. In particular:- cornering, trail braking, pre-emptive interventions, trainer training, new risk awareness campaigns, and the control of new road accesses. A previous post covered E-Scooters and E-Bikes.

https://britishsuperbikeschool.com/2023/09/10/e-scooters-and-e-bikes/

recommendations on Emergency straight-line braking

This is based on findings over a decade of training, that very few riders can brake effectively in an emergency, from speeds above 30 mph.

1. New and existing riders to be trained properly in high speed emergency braking in a straight line.
2. This requires firstly identifying what ‘best practise‘ is, and revising and improving existing official publications – notably ‘Police Motorcycle Roadcraft’ and ‘Riding – the Essential Skills’ in which the advice conflicts. Both publications are also currently considered to be misleading. Advice should be based on research and the science.
3. Additional trainer training is probably required to support this. This could be problematical as there are currently no legal restrictions on the provision of post-test or advanced training to other riders commercially, which is another issue that could be addressed.
4. Existing riders, many of whom are reluctant to pursue ‘advanced‘ or ‘enhanced‘ training, to be targetted by a revised ‘RIDE’ course, as an alternative to prosecution for any collision, (which should be pursued more enthusiastically), and/or following prosecution for any riding offence including ‘speeding’. And preferably in advance of a collision, via effective road policing which is close to non-existence locally, or by using CCTV and video footage from dash cams etc.
5. A publicity campaign advising best practise should be considered.

1. Riding test to include Emergency braking from 60 mph (currently 30 mph).

The prime road safety strategy for the past few years has been to get road users to THINK! and also address ‘Speeding’, which has had apparently little effect on collisions, despite most road users visibly going more slowly than they did. It’s also convenient as it requires very little resources, and is more than covered by the revenue through prosecutions and ‘Speed Awareness’ courses. However, regarding collisions, speeding is only one of 4 major factors, which also include;-

1. Hazard Awareness (paying proper attention)
2. Reaction Time
3. And critically, regarding motorcycles, being able to brake effectively in the shortest possible distance, as almost all other vehicles have anti-lock brakes and don’t tip over under heavy braking. (Bicycles, E-Cycles and E-Scooters have the same issues, but clearly this won’t be picked up by speed cameras).

An opportunity of biblical proportions, bearing in mind the many millions who have attended a speed awareness course, is being missed to tackle the other issues, primarily ‘paying proper attention’ because if they were, then they would not have been on the course in the first place. That these are focussed on marginal speeders, not those speeding excessively, makes no sense. Speed cameras and camera vans are quite easy to spot.

Many, maybe most motorcycle riders from experience, cannot stop effectively from higher speeds. Additional independent research is urgently needed to confirm this.

There is no obvious easy way of recognising the failure to apply the brakes and reduce speed effectively as a contributory factor in most collisions, so it is probably a significant hidden factor which remains unidentified and unaddressed. The second cause when the rider skids and falls prior to the collision will be recognised, as it would result in evidence of sliding on road, bike and rider, and a different impact. Presumably failing to brake properly can also remain unidentified within ‘Loss of Control‘ which is a major factor, or ‘Inexperienced rider‘, or ‘Riding too fast for the conditions’.

A large number of collisions also have no determined contributory factors.

Unlike a modern car or truck, a motorcycle requires training, skill and practise to be able to stop to even meet Highway Code braking standards.

Car drivers are used to just stamping on the brakes in an emergency, as almost every car or truck now has anti-lock brakes (ABS), whereas only new, or some earlier motorcycles over 125cc, have ABS.

A sports car on soft grippy tyres can stop at close to half the distances as outlined in the Highway Code. A motorcycle cannot.

Cyclists have often skidded and fallen, or gone over the handlebars after applying the front brake, so many moving to motorcycling then avoid using the front brake firmly, or for some riders, at all.

Braking from 30 mph only takes about 1.5 seconds, so feels almost instant. Braking from 70 mph takes over 3 seconds, is more physical and potentially more frightening and challenging. The equivalent of doing a ‘handstand’.

Speed of impact clearly effects the level of injury, so losing at much speed as quickly as possible is key to reducing KSI’s.

A 30 mph impact is probably survivable, a 40 mph impact, probably not.

Motorcycles cannot stop as quickly as cars, as the limiting factor is not tyre grip but the motorcycle tipping forward, with the maximum retardation available just on the point of tipping.

(From John Bradley’s, ‘The RacIng Motorcycle’)

(From ‘Motorcycle Dynamics’ by Vittore Cossalter)

This theory needs to be confirmed and officially developed into ‘best practise’, although it broadly supports the opinions expressed below.

Riders therefore need to be trained in the correct technique, recognise what is happening when they brake, and ensure they have the confidence to apply the brakes properly. It is ‘a balancing act’.

Many riders are reluctant to use the front brake properly, or sometimes at all. This is usually due to prior experience riding bicycles, where it is easy to go over the handlebars with hard front-wheel braking. This tendency is far less on a motorcycle due to the lower centre of mass due to the engine etc. and happens far more more slowly, giving the motorcycle rider time to react, and it tends to happen more at lower speeds as the rider comes to a halt.

Many riders also appear to be unaware of how quickly they can actually brake, particularly in wet conditions. Modern tyres have far more grip than many older riders believe. As long as you apply the brakes more carefully initially, there is still sufficient grip to get the rear wheel off the ground on wet roads (equivalent to 1g) – tipping forward is still the limiting factor.

The front wheel is also very easy to lock without ABS if the front brake lever is snatched, (the effect is like the magician who pulls a table cloth from a laid table) and can nowadays be achieved with just one or two fingers on the front brake lever.

This usually results in an instant fall, although it can be released and reapplied, but again needs knowledge and practice.

Once a rider is off the bike and sliding down the road, speed is only lost in the friction between the rider and the road surface. The outcome of an impact at ground level is likely to be worse, and there is a risk of being run over by following vehicles who are often closer than the required 2-second distance as they can see easily past the rider.

The rear wheel is also easily locked, but a skid is usually controllable, although the overall braking distance will be lengthed.

Motorcycles with ABS have a system which prevents wheels locking and skids, but if the ABS is triggered it may increase potential stopping distances. However, it is probably better for new and inexperienced riders, on a bike fitted with ABS, to simply apply the brakes as hard as they can.

‘An ABS does not necessarily shorten your stopping distance, but does allow you to keep steering control and drive your vehicle more effectively.‘

https://www.tdi.texas.gov/pubs/videoresource/fsdrivingabs.pdf,

So it is still more effective to apply the brakes correctly, even on a motorcycle fitted with ABS.

‘ABS is demonstrated to reduce stopping distances and to improve stability under all braking conditions, but such features are not enough to guarantee a good braking performance in emergency events if the riders have not the skills to utilize the full braking power of the motorcycle’. 

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37348453/#:~:text=ABS%20is%20demonstrated%20to%20reduce,braking%20power%20of%20the%20motorcycle.

There is a debate, on-line, as to whether ABS actually shortens stopping distances, but it probably depends on the level of rider skill, which needs to be very high to beat an ABS system.

The advice is that if you do trigger the ABS with the front brake, that you have probably ‘snatched’ the front brake lever too hard initially, as once the weight has transferred to the front wheel it should only lock due to a poor road surface.

Triggering the rear wheel ABS is again due to either stamping on the rear brake, or failing to release it as the weight transfers forwards

As it states in Police Motorycle Roadcraft ‘‘If you activate the ABS ask yourself why? Are you taking greater risks. Do you need to improve your technique?“. The advice is, however, if the ABS activates do not release the brakes. Riders need to be aware of the pulsing sensation, but not to react to it. It could be mistaken for faulty brakes.

Many riders also have more than one motorcycle, with older sportsbikes being very popular, which don’t have ABS. All riders should be able to stop without the ABS being activated, although it is an invaluable safety aid, particularly for the inexperienced or unexpected slippery roads. ABS is also a useful training aid for riders to experience the point at which the tyre loses grip, without risk of skidding or falling.

The proposed correct technique for braking in a straight line is to immediately apply both brakes firmly but smoothly, with front brake lever pressure increasing while the weight transfers forwards, and the pressure on the rear brake steadily released to avoid locking the rear wheel as it unloads and potentially skids. The front brake to only be released if the front wheel locks and skids, or if the rear wheel lifts off the ground (which riders can be trained to recognise).

Braking from high speed places high loads on the rider’s arms and neck, as they are thrown forward. It requires riders to grip the fuel tank with their knees and rely on their arms to stop them sliding forwards, and/or on the rear of the fuel tank stopping a slide forward.

The commonplace untrained reaction in an emergency is often to panic, intially snatching the front brake and stamping on the rear, potentially instantly locking the front and/or rear wheels. An unexpected front wheel skid with usually result in a fall. Skidding tyres significantly increase stopping distances. Alternatively, many riders can fail to apply the front brake hard enough, for fear of skidding or going over the handlebars. With a little training and practise we have found that most rider’s stopping distances can be reduced significantly, which can be critical in avoiding a collision or reducing the speed of impact.

Riders very rarely, if ever, practise emergency braking, with the first time for many usually being out of necessity.

It also appears that many riders are unaware of the relationship between speed and stopping distance, which is particularly noticeable at higher speeds on a race track as we have also found, even though it is included in DVSA advice. Most road riders speeding at say 90 mph, probably don’t appreciate it will take them twice as long to stop as it does from 60 mph.

The faster they are riding, the more critical the ability to stop effectively is.

The extent that the failure to brake effectively is a cause or contributory factor in collisions is not identified at all, and is probably in most instances unknown. However, experience in post test training riders indicated this is likely a major contributory factor, particularly as it has been found that motorcyclists are more likely to be speeding.

The only obvious ways this can be confirmed as an issue, is to formally research rider braking to confirm our findings.

High speed braking should also be addressed during any advanced or post-test training, which could also be mandatory for post collision riders. From personal experience, I completed my advanced training, and post test instructor training without ever having been required to complete an emergency stop from high speed.

The existing NRRAC RIDE courses now appears to be online, and when they were in person, the training workshops were not delivered nationally, and do not seem to address rider competence, mainly behavioural problems. https://www.drivetech.co.uk/police-referred-courses/course/ride/

The course could be redesigned to also address rider competence, either in response to potential police prosecutions, or post collisions.

2. Current DVSA advice on emergency braking to apply front brake before the rear to be reviewed and changed to applying both brakes at same time

There is an issue at the moment with long standing advice from the DVSA to apply the front brake before the rear in an emergency, which marginally increases stopping distances, and has a disproportionate effect on riders who are reluctant to use the front brake, or some bikes with dual brakes, or those with a low centre of mass (cruisers).

Roadcraft alternatively tells riders to use both brakes in an emergency. Also ‘As the machine slows, gradually release the pressure on the front brake, and increase the pressure on the rear brake’. This does not seem to make any sense, as releasing the front brake will likely increase stopping distances, and increasing the pressure on the rear will likely simply lock the rear wheel. If the rider is braking hard, the rear wheel will have very little if any weight on it. This maybe a legacy issue from a few decades ago when tyre grip was poorer.

There is an argument for releasing the pressure on the front brake, not as a routine, but only in the event of a skid, or if the rear wheel has left the ground to prevent the rider tipping forward over the handlebars, which happens comparatively slowly compared to a bicycle.

All published advice needs to be supported by evidence and the physics.

There is also the clear need to address retraining and upskilling existing riders, which requires properly trained trainers, many of whom may need retraining, and there is also the current problem of reaching unqualified unlicenced commercial trainers, many ex-police.

As most riders would not voluntarily attend advanced or post-test training, this could be made mandatory for any rider involved in a collision etc.

3. Linked ABS to be mandatory for all PTWs over 50cc, specifically including 125cc which are currently exempt, as these are the PTWs that riders learn to ride on.

Only new or a few earlier motorcycles over 125cc have ABS. It is an invaluable safety aid, particularly for the inexperienced or unexpected slippery roads. ABS is also a useful training aid for riders to experience the point at which the tyre loses grip, without risk of losing control, skidding or falling.

As most 125cc motorbikes can achieve at least 60 mph, it is difficult to understand the failure to ensure that they too now are mandated to have ABS from new.

Mike Abbott

British Superbike School

Updated 5.3.24

This is the progress so far on the bodywork. The colour scheme is period Suzuki red/black with yellow and white pin striping, in line with the original concept.

I’ve used rattle cans, which are far better than they used to be, with just a bit or ‘orange peel’ to polish off.

A proper professional paint job would be £100’s, which would undoubtedly be better and probably sensible on a newish bike.

However, many years ago one of my mates hand painted a car, and made a great job of it (after much polishing).

If you look carefully at many even new cars, the paintwork is far from perfect (I used to manage a 1st Tier supplier of painted body parts). If you’re being very picky.

You have to wait 15 mins in between coats to get the paint to cure properly and quickly, and use good quality masking tape to get sharp lines.

This time of year you need to heat the workshop to avoid blooming, in particular heat the parts being painted.

Preparation is also key.

I’m very much an amateur painter, so if concerned get advice from someone with more experience.

After the decals, all the parts are being clear laquered to protect them, and improve the finish.

The white area for a race number doesn’t meet ACU regulations, as it’s not upright, flat or deep enough, it’s just for the look.

If you’re building a race bike, you’ll need to fit a bikini fairing or number boards either side of the seat etc for the race numbers.

I’ve fitted a front number plate, with a race screen fitted behind it, which should make it a bit easier on the arms and neck at high speed, which you can see above

I’ve used stick on pinstriping, but I think if I did it again, I’m now confident to be able to paint them on, having watched an episode of Henry Cole’s programme Shed and Buried, which included a professional paint shop, and how to do it properly using paint layers.

You just need top quality thin masking tape, mine was intended for modelling.

This was originally an attempt at creating a Suzuki XR69 from a Bandit. However, it was discovered that it would have required major surgery to get the seat to fit, and having bought a complete XR69 body kit, the fairing is far too low and narrow.

Could have cut the fairing in half, leaving just the top and bottom, but decided not to. I suppose you could cut it into 2 halves and widen it, but it might look a bit odd.

An orginal XR69 looks like this – if you haven’t seen one.

Below is another great bike based on a Bandit in Classic Team Suzuki blue, but without a fairing and high bars. Looks like a SRAD seat? Smart colour scheme. Looked a better way to go.

A great attempt below with the fairing problem overcome by removing bottom half.

I can’t find a track bandit with a full fairing, although later 1250 road Bandits had one, and Pyramid Plastics do lower touring panels for road bikes.

You can get cockpit fairings, but it was decided to go with just a Bandit race seat, straight bars and a number board, more Wes Cooley than Mick Grant, but in the red and black Suzuki colours.

May look at fitting a belly pan later – can’t find a race one at the moment.

Expert advice from Spike at Ragged Racing if you want a full fairing on a Bandit:-

Harris F1 fairing is pretty much the same dimensions as an XR69, since Harris copied the bike. Seen a few Bandit/XR69s, but it’s the height that really throws it. You have to have the clip-ons very low for any of the full fairings.

I must admit, I am a fan of a more naked look… and the XR69 replica thing has been done to death!
I noticed you had the Yoshimura half fairing in your article [No12 bike], which is essentially a Harris F1 to with holes in it. Skidmarx have just bought BB Plastics moulds, and have that…

And alternative, would be to ‘copy’ the Team Force bikes that bellypan came from, which is a well know European endurance bike.
This is a top derived from the 1979 XR69, so has that ‘proper’ Suzuki look. The seat is a slightly altered Nico Bakker.
I have Christian Hames’ mould for this, and can produce a fairing with or without headlight cut-out.
Obviously this is a Harris chassis, but it’d work as well on a Bandit, with just a bit of light surgery on the subframe.

Cheers, Spike

Ragged Edge Racing
01454417404
www.raggededgeracing.com

E-scooters, how about a ‘new’ concept.

Firstly, cycles were recently found to be 3 x safer than E-scooters, so E-cycles look to be much safer so could simply and easily replace E-scooters.

But if pedalling is seen as putting riders off, then the simplist and probably safest solution is to remove the pedals etc from existing hired out E-Bikes, and fit footrests or footboards and a throttle – which although currently illegal, are freely available.

Failling that, here’s some ideas for new E-scooters:-

Electric – obviously – current E-scooter drivetrains would fit.

Being seated and a longer wheel base make them far less likely to tip up, and should halve the current Dft braking distance standard, back to Highway Code standards.

Larger wheels to better deal with potholes, kerbs etc. Should be able to safely mount a 4 inch kerb (current standard is 30mm), so will need larger wheels probably 16inches in diameter including pnuematic tyres. Better grip overall.

Battery mounted horizontally between the wheels.

Disc brakes.

Could have suspension added which would be nice, more comfortable and probably safer.

Could be made a bit more stylish, but I think the grunge look is great, although a bright colour would be better for visibility.

‘Monkey bikes’ could also be produced with electric motors, but would be more expensive…

…..or there are some small electric ‘step throughs’ already on the market, but would probably need restricting to 15mph for riders without motorcycle licences.

12 people killed last year, > 1300 injured, >400 seriously, although these figures are thought to be significantly understated.

Something should be done.

All these options would still allow local councils to rent out small electric PTWs at a eye watering profit margin, whilst significantly reducing the risk to riders.

The new Cannondale looks perfect, great for carrying your groceries, but a bit expensive at £5,000.

Finishing off the braking system, it’s now got wavey discs which I think were around in the period. Thought of updating the brakes, but the 6 pot calipers I don’t think were any better, and Suzuki went back to 4 pots with 8 individual pads on the later GSXRs which are too late.

Don’t think you can upgrade without spending silly money, although modern radial brakes are far better, the Brembos on my Aprilia RSV were astonishing at the time. I think they came later.

The rear brake master cylinder has an integral reservoir I haven’t seen before. Not sure what to do yet as you can’t see the fluid level – race bikes usually just have a clear tube. Anyone else seen one of these?

Anyway the fluid front and back will be changed before it’s tested, and not just the master cylinders (which is a well known trade short cut).

I’ve sourced a S/H race seat off Ebay, although you can buy them locally from A16 race parts, along with belly pans.

It’s going to be a red and black scheme as the XR69’s were, not the current Suzuki Classic blue.